'If you are allergic to hills, or if a majestic shoreline is your favorite landscape, Wilder Ranch is for you any time of year,' Times outdoors columnist Ron Erskine writes. (PHOTO BY RON ERSKINE.)
Ron Erskine
Wilder Ranch State Park, a couple miles north of Santa Cruz on U.S. Highway 1, is like two parks in one. East of the highway, there are a variety of coastal habitats common along the California coast. Down below, oak-studded grasslands are interlaced with chaparral while Douglas-fir and redwood forests nestle in the ravines, as the park land edges up 1,800-foot Ben Lomond Mountain. To the west, one can hike or bike for several miles on the edge of wild coastal bluffs.
On two recent trips to Wilder Ranch, I could not resist the opportunity to walk a long stretch of coastal cliff tops without the homes or cars that are nearby in similar settings near Santa Cruz. One trip was earlier this spring and the other just last weekend, when, even on the threshold of summer, wildflowers were abundant.
It is almost a mile from the parking lot to where the trail reaches the bluffs. Along that approach, you follow an estuary carved out by Wilder Creek that has been the target of a restoration project. Since 1994, agricultural lands have been restored to their original wetland habitat, fostering the return of native plant species including Dogwood and alder. Wetland birds and raptors now nest here, and other native animal species have moved into the restored area.
Your first view of the ocean is at Wilder Beach, a lovely spot, but as part of the nature preserve, it is off limits. No matter. Here the trail turns away from Wilder Beach -- and the show begins. For the next several miles, Ohlone Bluff Trail zigs and zags, tracing the twisting edge of this marine plateau.
When I say edge, I mean the very edge. Be careful, not just for your own safety, but of nesting birds this time of year. On a couple occasions, as I moved near the cliff edge looking for the perfect photo, I disturbed nesting gulls that cawed their displeasure, prompting me to retreat -- and prompting other "security" gulls to hover close above and keep a watchful eye on me.
The views up and down the cliffs are always changing and always magnificent. Set aside plenty of time if you wish to walk the full length of the Ohlone Bluff Trail because you will want to linger at countless overlooks. Beaches, cliffs, tidepools and spacious views up and down the coast accompany you the entire way.
Last weekend at Wilder Ranch, I discovered that, more important than the time of year you visit the bluffs, is the time of day. I went to the park an hour before sunset hoping to catch the warm light. While the park closes at sunset, I had plenty of time to walk the cliffs and enjoy the softening effect of the evening's orange glow.
But I was treated to much more than a lovely sunset. Though it was a Sunday evening, everyone else had left or was leaving. Renee and I seemed to have the entire coast and the sunset to ourselves. On the verge of summer, I was surprised to see so many wildflowers adorning the trail. In addition to the gull nests, there were scores of cormorants that could be seen nesting on the cliff's inaccessible faces.
Across the trail, a northern harrier skulked over the coastal prairie looking for unwary rodents. Keep your eye out for the northern harrier in habitats like this. He is easy to identify by his distinctive white rump patch. He does not soar like some raptors, but traverses over open ground maybe 20 feet high ... watching, watching.
If you are allergic to hills, or if a majestic shoreline is your favorite landscape, Wilder Ranch is for you any time of year.
Ron Erskine Ron Erskine is an outdoors columnist for the Times. Reach him at ronfoxtail@msn.com.
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